Hosts: Indiginous members of Yeak Laom CommuneWhen: year round Length of tour: Walks average around 3 hours long but much of the experience consists of getting to the location, plus the guides welcome your suggestions for further activities. They can also arrange links with other tourism activities in Ratanakiri, including boating and elephant riding. Number of guests: 1 or more Fee: For basic walks: 1 person $7; 2 people $9; 3 people $11; 4 people $13; 5 people $15
GETTING HERE:
YEAK LAOM COMMUNE, ITS LAND & PEOPLE:
The old people of the commune recall that the area that is now the provincial town, Banlung, once their traditional lands, was previously a much-feared area, stalked by tigers and other dangerous animals. In previous eras the higher land was left to support forest and areas along streams were cultivated with a form of sustainable and rotating 'shifting agriculture'. This shifting agriculture remains, along with new forms of agriculture, but the landscape has changed somewhat from earlier days. Now, much of the land of Yeak Laom commune has become owned and occupied by people coming from other areas of Cambodia. TheTampuen people have retreated to the far corners of their traditional domain. This has meant that most of the area now occupied by new settlers has become permanently cleared land and the original Tampuen people have had to try to support themselves from a much reduced land base.
Kowl Mountain forest is similar to the forests of Youl Mountain and is an important area for the supply of non-timber forest products and trees cut for traditional round-wood coffins. Vilhakart forest is also a very important area for forest products. Most of the area was cleared in the 1950s intentions being to convert it into rubber plantation. This however, did not eventuate, and the area now supports a strong and lush regrowth of evergreen forest thick with vines and climbers. These combine to create a closed canopy and a dark, cool environment under it. As mentioned, the other areas of Yeak Laom often support a form of agriculture that works with nature in a way different to permanent agriculture. Because the red soils of the area are combined with high, seasonal rainfall, leaching of nutrients occurs, productivity declines and nutrients must be added in order to maintain adequate yields of rice and vegetables The traditional swidden farming system allows regrowth forest to establish once again, so that the deep-rooted native trees bring nutrient up from deep down in the subsoil to deposit it again in the topsoil in the form of leaf litter and decayed root mass. Spirits who reside in the land, the forest and streams, of course, oversee all this. There are many rituals and offerings that Tampuen people undertake in order to consult with and gain permission from the spirits in order to undertake the various stages of farming and to ensure or encourage an adequate harvest. The mature forest around Yeak Laom has a large variety of trees. The forest provides the Tampuen people with all the materials they need to construct houses as well as a variety of fruits including wild mango, rambutan and starfruit. There are also many kinds of edible plants and fungi. Some plants and lichens have medicinal uses
TAMPUEN CULTURE: The Tampuen language is very different from Khmer. There is no written script but now efforts are being made to develop written language to ensure the survival of the language, culture and traditions. The script being used is the national, Khmer language script. By learning this script with a first indigenous language, it is believed that it will act as bridge to support literacy in Khmer. The traditional Tampuen houses are different from the Khmer houses. They are made of four different types of material:
Each village has a meeting house. The meeting house is considered special - a buffalo is sacrificed before it is built so that the spirits of the vilage accept and support it. All villagers help to build it. Outside walls may be painted with patterns, inside walls are carefully woven and the main pillars inside are often beautifully carved. Village meeting house Tampuens believe that they are surrounded by spirits with much power. The spirits may live in big trees, rocks, lakes and streams. The spirits are called 'Prah Jang'. Special rituals with offerings are performed when there is sickness in the family and before harvesting or planting. Farming is conducted according to these spiritual beliefs. Tampuens are farmers and grow a wide range of crops such as rice, cashews, fruit and vegetables. They also raise chickens, pigs, cows and buffalos. Farming is rotational. Farms are shifted allowing forest regrowth to rejuvenate the land prior to the return of farming to that area. Tampuen people prefer to do this and keep the old forest as reserves for forest spirits.
WALKS AROUND THE AREA:
The forest around the lake is stunning, with tall trees and a lush undergrowth including bamboo, wild ginger and ferns. Brightly coloured butterflies feed around the lake edge. You can swim in the clear water of the lake - the water is warm even in the rainy season. Two wooden swimming platforms provide convenient access. A trail through the forest around the lake takes about forty minutes.
For organised groups the Yeak Laom Cultural Arts Group can perform traditional dance and music. This needs to be booked in advance. The programme and cost can be negotiated. The Tampuen people play a variety of instruments that they make themselves from local materials. |
Yeak Laom Commune consists of five Tampuen villages totalling about 1500 people. The villages, Lapoe, Lon and Sil are adjacent to the road to Yeak Laom Lake. Chree village is located west of the lake, next to Banlung. Phnom village is to the northeast of the lake. The traditional lands of Yeak Laom once included the land now occupied by Ban Lung. Previously abundant in natural resources, Yeak Laom Commune now retains smaller areas of forest, much of which are crucial to supporting the community and their spiritual connection with the land. Apart from the Yeak Laom Lake protected area, there is the spirit forest of Youl Mountain and the community-use forests of Koul Mountain and Vilakart.
Yeak Laom Commune is dominated by basalt, a volcanic rock from lava flow of volcanic eruptions. This has given rise to deep red soils, which in turn have given rise to and supported swidden agriculture and a variety of different forest types. A prolonged dry season, from November to April means that elevated areas with stony soils or with increased drainage naturally support a semi-deciduous forest. This forest is lush in the wet season but becomes autumn-like in the dry. In contrast, areas with more consistent moisture supply, support rich, lush forest that remains so throughout the year. 
Significant areas of beautiful forest remain and are highly valued by the Tampuen people. Youl Mountain is one of these areas. It is considered by some to be another volcanic crater that is now much eroded and now no longer a lake. For the Tampuen people, it is a special area where spirits reside, where the forest must be kept and used with care so that the eternal balance between the spiritual and physical worlds is maintained. The lower slopes of this mountain support dense forest with much bamboo, while the upper slopes, particularly the southern slopes, support a drier forest type with a sparse understory.
The Tampuen people are one of eight minority groups in Ratanakiri They have their own language and culture. Their language and culture are very different from those of the Khmer people who make up the majority of Cambodia's population.
Tampuens are skilled craftsmen. Baskets (called krapa) are used to carry goods on their backs. These have beautiful patterns and are made from bamboo which is dyed different colours. Other items produced include musical instruments, crossbows and cloth. These crafts can be seen at the cultural centre and a variety of hand made items can be bought at the handicraft shop next door.
Ten minutes walk from the gate is the Yeak Laom Cultural Centre where you can see an exhibition of handicrafts from several tribes in the area. A shop next to the Cultural Centre sells a variety of locally made handicrafts such as baskets, musical instruments, scarves and bags made from handwoven cloth.
