A Day at El Nido

by Lee Ann

Like a lizard, basking naked in the sun, on a hardwood sun deck with unbeatable views, I'm surrounded by breathtaking black marble cliffs similar to Yosemite Park, but without the people.

Except for sounds of birds and waves, everything is absolutely quiet and I drink up this ‘Quality of Life’ that is MIRA. My resting place is a little island outcrop that I have walked too, after crossing a cute bamboo arched bridge, 10 mts from my seaside cottage called Soul. Leeann has planted more than 50 yucca trees in the rock crevasses surrounding this deck to offer additional privacy with an exotic touch.

I am alone, overlooking a white sand beach shrouded in jungle. My body is covered with a thin layer of mud, and I smell of eucalyptus. A hibiscus has been dexterously placed around my fanny and I imagine I look lovely if somewhat strange.  Soon the mud will harden and can be massaged off, taking with it the dead cells. I had been given a coconut bowl, full of local clay and have the option to do-it-myself or have someone help me. I opt for the former as I often indulge in this therapy with its $7 only, price tag. Afterwards with a wonderfully smooth skin and less visible wrinkles I feel 10 years younger.

A coral reef is calling me to explore, 20 feet below. I’d like to search for that large colorful clam again and luxuriate in the pleasure of swimming nude. Much earlier this morning, I have joined several others do simple Tai Chi and Yoga here in the buff.  The freedom to move without restricting clothes and to share the experience is delightful.

From our high vantage point we could also study the hornbills and kingfishes taking breakfast. In the distance, fishermen in small dugouts are collecting their nets. Sometimes with luck one can spot the fin of a dolphin, the head of a turtle or a small stingray popping out of the water. Now it's just after breakfast and the weather is cool and the light spectacular. With a small stone I make lovely xylophone sounds from the jagged limestone rocks. At home I am a musician and I’ve often taped the impressive melody of these rocks. I am sure Gammon music started from a similar medium.

Eastward, across the water, is the thin strip of Palawan mainland, that separates the Sulu Sea from pristine Bacuit Bay. It's a rugged green lush canopy with a smattering of lighter upland rice fields. Hidden in the jungle there’s a windy dirt track that the locals call the "Puerto-El NIdo Highway" which is impassable 7 or 8 months of the year. But now with the Seair flights 3 times a week from Manila, it's much easier to access paradise.

A little later, without the clay and all squeaky clean; I climb the eastern cliff face, 300 mts away at the other end of the beach. It's a relatively steep 250-meter up, hike, takes approx. 20 minutes, and from the top, I can see MIRA's Clubhouse directly below, intricately designed with three round roofs to form a central high dome and the outdoor Jacuzzi on the front balcony. Beyond are the couple of retreat outrigger boats for Island hopping, exploring, El Nido trips, airport transfers and sometimes the long trips to Taytay, Port Barton and Sabang.  

Ah!! What a breathtaking view. Like specks in the distance I can make out the two MIRA kayaks heading for the shore of ‘the Princess’ one nautical mile away. I know the precise distance as I make a point to swim there and sometimes back. The rock massive, actually called Inabuytan has an enchanted underground cave inside the rock full of stalactites and limestone crystals. It's an interesting expedition and the swim in the freshwater lagoon totally in the dark is mystical beyond explanation.

My!! what a stupendous view it is up here. No matter how often I come, I am fascinated at the beauty all around. The water is like glass and everything seems a mirage and as if the many rugged islands are jutting out of clouds.

To the south, south/east, five minutes away, is the quaint fishing village of Malapacao and the backbone of cliffs with a myriad of climbing/hiking possibilities, that form the length of the foot of Malapacao.  The village has a quaint church, that doubles as a daycare, partially funded by MIRA, a dilapidated pier and an abandoned resort project. Malapacao, the word, means "Land of the Bigfoot" or "Foot on the Ground". The village with its 100 odd inhabitants is in the arch and the beautiful MIRA Retreat, where I stay, is in the toes to the north.

Other cottages just like mine called Spirit, Love, Harmony, Life and Heart, take your breath away with their simplicity and rustic open design. Everything is all handmade and finished with fine details. Tie-dyed curtains and sheets, shells stitched onto fishnet lampshades and flowers are everywhere. Placed on your bed, floating in your water bowl at the bottom of your step to clean your feet and even hanging from branches inside the cottage. I am even greeted with the early morning call of "Welcome to the World" with a flower on my cottage step as Leeann walks by nude to encourage me to vacate my beautiful bed and join her in early morning gentle arts.

The garden is an absolute splendor for your eyes with the perfume of frangipani, jasmine and the augubower lily drifting everywhere.

Right from where I lie, I can see white flowered native Jasmine-like flowers, dropping into and floating on the water, as many of these trees hang over the sea.

Leeann too, is hardly ever without her flower, the red hibiscus "Gumamela" behind her ear. Often that is all, or almost all, she is wearing.

She says she feels fully dressed. I ask if she is available or taken and laughingly she says she "is still available for the right person, but he hasn't come yet".

 Now the water is really calling me to come down and skinny-dip. Its warm up here and my mind is heady with the views. My mouth is watering thinking about another exquisite lunch that will be served on banana leaves, under the button tree on the beach. I gaze across the bay at the western peaks and consider what will be my next hike in the cooler part of the afternoon, or should I just indulge in an Ocean Glow Body Scrub on the beach or have an Ayuvedic or Swedish massage with more of those essential oils that allow your mind to drift to other places.

Maybe I'll make it a really full day, save the therapy till after dinner and take a strenuous hike to the Southern Bay. This is a delightful trail through thick forests, adjacent to the base of the towering cliffs and is truly a climber’s paradise.  Again as I pass, I would be torn between wanting to make yet another assent or to continue for 40 minutes along this interesting trail to a pristine cove. The jungle here comes right down to the blue sea and a white sand beach. The water entices me to swim to the many cliff overhangs with little caves that I can poke my head into to explore. If I continue along this rugged shoreline I would get back to the retreat in 40 minutes. On my way I can see hundreds of clam of every color and maybe 6 or more lionfish.

 If I time it right when I visit this cove, I can enjoy this area at sunset, when thousands of bats come out of the massive cave high above, heading to the mainland for their evening forage.

 Alternatively, I could just sit in my hammock on my balcony and doze, occasionally admiring the now famous view of the Princess. This view was chosen to grace the front cover of the 6 Edition of Lonely Planet.   

 Ah!! The decisions to be made on holiday. Tomorrow it's the same, should I go diving or island hopping to nearby islands, or maybe kayak up a jungle river!!! This is my fifth time to MIRA and it truly is pure paradise. Small, often with only a handful of visitors, the MIRA experience is always interesting and well remembered but my days are always too short.

 Take the dinners here for example. For a city person like me, these evenings are something very special. Again there are no sounds but the lapping of the waves. MIRA tries to runs mostly on Solar power so there's no noisy generator except for the Jacuzzi and when little sun. The evening meal, called supper, is served around a small beach-fire with short candles set in holes in the sand. Coconut bowls containing delicious soups; guacamole, baked jackfruit seeds and many other strange delights continue to come out of the darkness. Afterwards Leeann may lead you into some folk singing or entice you into the water to enjoy the phosphoresce.

 While strolling back through the garden, thousands of little lights sparkle in the trees and on the cliffs showing the presence of the lovely fireflies. A day in paradise could not finish more serenely.

I am a little sad as tomorrow is my last full day of such quality time, till next time in paradise and I don't want to leave. I'm giving serious thought to Leeann's offer of positions for volunteers. Its very tempting - half-day work in exchange for accommodation and food. Could I handle the simple life far away from a cell phone and other forms of modern-day culture, and become an anti-work rat? Right now on the top of this gorgeous mountain, which I rate at approx.8 out of 10, I could say easily "yes it would be wonderful". Would I think the same once I return to the real world and get back into the stress of my normal life? What a delimma to wrestle with.

How to fit such a Quality of Life more into my lifestyle?